***Mile 5: Orisson
September 10, 2017
Today I was baptized. Pilgrims have a choice on the first day out of St. Jean Pied de Port to walk all the way to Roncesvalles (or any village near there) by the Napoleon Route or to split the 17 miles up into two days and spend the night in Orisson.
5 miles doesn’t sound too bad especially when looking at the map of the whole Camino. It’s brutal though. It’s the first day when beginning from St. Jean Pied de Port and it is the first leg to crossing the Pyrenees Mountains. St. Jean Pied de Port is at an altitude of 200 meters above sea level. Orisson is at 800 meters. That’s steep in just 5 miles.
You walk up and up and up and than down and again up and up and up. There are very little flat stretches only up hill grades that go from gradual to steep to “incredibly what did I get myself into” steep. Pace is so important. Even with practice I needed to stop frequently to catch my breath. I would set a goal from fence post to fence post or gate or cow (hopefully the cow moved more towards me and not away) and walk from one to another. We came across a short cut off the asphalt street made up of red mud (not bad to walk on though), rocks and grass. It switched back and forth and was rather steep in places but much easier to walk on—softer on the feet. Than back on the road, turned a bend and there we were. 3.5 hours, 5 miles, 600 meters higher.
I was baptized today. I walked a difficult road in the pouring down rain. I made it and now though I still have many more days to go and many more roads to walk I am a pilgrim and I feel blessed!
El Camino to Orrison
***Mile 17: Roncevalles where El Camino begins for the people of Spain
September 11, 2017
Today I walked in the clouds. It was wet, windy and cold. I found out that my rainproof (Gortex) jacket has its limits. So does the rain cover that came with my pack. So I gained 600 meters today walking 10 miles in sloshy, wet socks with boots that had been waterproofed. I did well. Yesterday’s walk helped my body to adjust, just wish my feet would. Walking down hill, though, can be a bitch.
Here I was high in the Pyrenees Mountains surrounded by clouds, the clanking of bells, and sheep. It was mystical in all that grey and dampness.
Today I walked in the clouds. I am wet, cold, and sore.
I am happy.
El Camino to Roncevalles and the church where they hold the Pilgrim’s Mass
***Mile 32: Zubiri
September 12, 2017
Today I walked thru forests and enjoyed the silent clear density within. The rain stopped and we had blue sky. The trails were rocky and rough on the feet. We passed a man who had taken off his boots and walked barefooted…slowly over rocky paths and grass. Someone said that he had fallen and the boots hurt. We were than passed by a man traveling from Finisterre to Rome. He looked happy.
The last two downhill miles were the worst. Slate rock cutting into the trail making it difficult to maneuver. Downhill is always more difficult with the force of gravity pulling. It was rough on the feet and each step was agony.
Today I walked thru forests and enjoyed the silent clear density within. My feet hurt and I hope that I can continue tomorrow with less pain. The forests had an ancient wisdom to share.
El Camino to Zubiri: Beautiful but painful
***Mile 45.3: Pamplona
September 13, 2017
Today I walked thru valleys that curved and flowed thru villages and farmland. The sound of clanking bells that hung around the necks of sheep, cows and horses was our rhythmic music to pace by.
The road was much better though there were patches with too much rock but nothing like yesterday. We walked up and down and up again and than down. The down hurts but the up is much better. Kept a better pace. Feet hurt but they will survive. Calves are protesting a bit. We have a day off tomorrow.
The day was dry and sunny and warm. I still wore my vest and pulled down the long sleeves of my t-shirt. Sweat helps keep one cool especially with a breeze. We walked in and out of forested areas with sunshine hitting us than shade. Life’s small pleasures: shade and breeze on a warm sunny day. We met a woman and young man sitting along the roadside under the only shade there was. The heat was too much for them. I told her to wet her scarf and wrap it around her neck. She said she had no water. We passed on and around the curve where there was a cool shady place with slabs of rock set up for a place to sit.
Today I walked thru valleys that curved and flowed thru villages and farmland. It took us to a medieval bridge that was built in the 12th century—Puente de la Magdalena—that crosses the river Arga and takes one into Pamplona. My feet protest, my calves tighten…I am where I should be.
El Camino to Pamplona and the gate to the city.
Pilgrim’s Passport as of September 14, 2017
I can totally relate with your descriptions coming in the flatlands of SE Michigan!! It has always been an eye opening experience for me when I’ve walk up/down what others call ‘hills’. Well done!