Mile 60.6: Puente de la Reina
September 15, 2017
Today I walked out of Pamplona. A beautiful city where people say they love to live there because it is tranquila (tranquil). We walked up the ridge where wind is used to make energy and a monument stands in honor of the pilgrims. Then I walked down a steep trail that is known as Quiebra Canillas (Break Hips) where with each step the rocks move and slide. As I was walking ever so slowly down Quiebra Canillas a singing man passed me as he was climbing up. He was going home to Pamplona and was so happy and talkative. He brought joy to the climb down.
You follow the smoothest trail in the rocky road.
Mile 73.6: Estella
September 16, 2017
Today I walked over a bridge that was built by a queen in honor of the pilgrims to make their journey easier when crossing the Argo River. The journey was smoother with ups and downs that were manageable.
We pilgrims walked on both modern trails and Roman roads where the stones must have been more level in their day. We came upon a garden with places to rest for the pilgrim and a young man selling fruit. We passed small villages with both old and new and crossed a medieval bridge. A walled garden with trees sang to us with bird song that I have never heard the likes of as the sky drizzled down on us. We ended our day in mass at the Church of San Pedro de la Rúa in Estella. The stone walls were grey, the statues primitive and colorful. The Father blessed the pilgrims and their journey.
Our journey is blessed.
Mile 86: Los Arcos
September 17, 2017
This morning I drank from a wine fountain. It is there for the pilgrims to enjoy though the wine tastes like vinegar. It tasted better though with each sip and gave some energy to the day ahead.
My husband and I passed vineyards, ruins of stone buildings, a castle, and a 13th century Fountain of the Moors. We walked beside a man who was born in the area and he told us about the long history of the area and the best white wine. We parted at the foot of a steep hill where he headed up to an old castle and we headed down to our own destination.
We made new friends with a couple from Canada who has traveled to many places. Together we talked and eased our walk and enjoyed the sheep whose shepherd and dog herded them along. I hope we meet again. There is a daughter and mother we have seen for several days now too. We greet and talk before they pass us. I don’t know their names nor where they are from but I do believe that they travel together a lot. Maybe next time I will ask their names…or not. If I know their names will I see them again?
The day was beautiful, the road not so steep. Yet it was rocky. I have my first blisters though they don’t pain me…yet.
I would not be able to do this if I did not have trekking poles.
Mile 97.5: Viana
September 18, 2017
Today I tasted “El Tinto del Pais.” It is a black grape that is sweet and adds body to the wine of this region. It has an old history like the soil that it grows in. The Phoenicians that settled along the Iberian coast grew it. Tempranillo is its name for it ripens early. It is what makes the Rioja wine—it is a noble grape.
A man was beating a tree with a long stick. There was cloth spread out under the tree catching the almond nuts that dropped. We walked thru valleys and up steep slopes that would tire out a burro. Saw old ruins of stone buildings and smelled the sage.
Mile 103.7: Logroño
September 19, 2017
Today was such an easy walk…only 10 kilometros (6.2 miles). The trail was made up of both rocky roads and asphalt with only a few hills. We walked behind the yards of homes and talked and joked with the owners. A man lamented that his tomatoes would not ripen before the frost. It has been a dry year. I told him that green tomatoes were good too but he likes them red and in his salad. An orange cat greeted us and rubbed itself against my husband’s leg. This is the first friendly cat we have encountered.
We eat in a restaurant that opened in 1916 and is popular with the people of this city. I had pulpo (octopus). I have waited 2 years to have octopus again. This one had chili pepper on it…hot, hot, hot! That did not stop me from enjoying it though. The beer and milk helped. I told the waiter that I had waited 2 years to have this dish again but picante (spicy) was a surprise. He joked if I wanted it hotter.
Logroño is alive with activity. There is a wine festival…San Mateo…with music, food, and wine. Friends, couples and families are enjoying it all. Tomorrow we have a day to explore more.
Tonight we drink the wine of Rioja.
No miles today…at least none on El Camino
September 20, 2017
Today we washed our clothes and mailed some postcards. We eat at the same restaurant from yesterday. I thought I was ordering artichoke, at least the picture looked like artichoke; guess I was wishing it to be. Instead it turned out to be pork that was cut thin, rolled and fried. It was good. We walked the streets and enjoyed the festive nature of the city. Found El Mercado (the central market) as it was closing. So I took some photos. There was a store that was so colorful with all the goods that he had so I took a photo. As I was walking on I heard some hard clapping and turned. The store owner was looking at me with an angry look. “No Fotos!” he told me. I looked to see if there was any sign that stated that no photos were to be taken and saw none so I shrugged my shoulders, smiled and walked on.
It bothered me though for a while. I try to be so careful and respectful to others and the places that I am at when taking photos. I usually have my larger camera and zoom lens with me. People look at me with anger. For El Camino I bought a small point and shoot that takes RAW instead of JPEG. I love it. It’s small, compact, great lens. I actually didn’t know that he was there. In the photo he is sitting in the shadows behind his cash register. I am sorry he was angry with me for taking a photo of his beautiful and interesting store in El Mercado.
El Camino may be difficult but it has compassion. Tomorrow we walk again.
Pilgrim Passport as of September 19, 2017
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