Mile 177.2 Hornillos del Camino/Isar
September 29, 2017
Today I began to better understand Earth’s stones. It’s not something I can explain; rather it’s an understanding of the heart…
The night before we left Burgos we went to mass in the cathedral. The priest was leading the rosary and I felt calm listening to the lady next to me recite it. Mass was rather mechanical though…so different from the pilgrim’s mass in San Juan de Ortega. He seemed more interested in the Polish and German pilgrims yet we were a diverse group from all over the world.
I will miss the bathtub that we had at the Abba Hotel in Burgos. It was big and easy to get into and out. We soaked in Epson’s salts and our feet and legs were happy.
El Camino was rather easy today. We walked 13.7 miles and only had 150 meters to climb on an easy grade to the Alto Meseta. The area is dry and the sky sunny. I have been wearing gloves and keeping my sleeves down to protect my skin. I passed a wall with bushes full of clustered white flowers and heard something I have not heard in a long time…the humming of happy bees. On the meseta we saw a shepherd and his two dogs and sheep clustered under the shade of a lone tree in a pasture full of rocks. We waved and he waved back.
Did I say it was an easy walk? Well…to get down the meseta the climb is steep and rocky. It is called Cuesta de Matamulas (The Slope That Kills Mules). It is steep and rocky. I took my time as people walked passed me and though I had no mule for it to kill it did get to my right shin. The muscle tightened and made the short walk to Hornillos del Camino difficult. It is now rested and better.
In Hornillos del Camino we called the owner (Don Miguel) of the casa rural (B&B), La Consulta, to pick up us. This is located in a small town called Isar about 2 miles from Hornillos del Camino and is a very nice place to spend the night (dinner was fantastic!) We rested and went for a walk by bodegas that are carved in the side of a hill were the people make their wine. We met a couple who has been married for 50 years and he talked about history and asked us questions about our roots and family. They wished us a long and happy marriage like theirs. We passed people enjoying conversation and companionship in their front gardens and greeted them.
Isar has a long history and use to have 400 people living there. Now there are few.
El Camino is an experience of culture and its people.
Mile 190.6 Castrojeriz
September 30, 2017
Today began great! The walk was easy and except for my sore muscle…I did great! Lasted 10 miles before my toes began to protest the last 3 miles. (They seem to do this as soon as I see the church tower.) Getting better! For lunch, though, I had a salad and I think it made me sick. So I’ve taken meds for it and am skipping dinner. Hope I feel better tomorrow!
We were walking thru a Meseta with undulating trails. The area is farmland where they grow grains. The ground is now barren and there are stacks of hay and rocks. Lots of rocks! We also passed old fortifications: rock walls and towers that have fallen (except one).
As we walked along the bicyclists pass us. With those pilgrims that are walking that I have spoken with (or overheard conversations) we agree that they are missing a lot as they zoom by!
Today several of us pilgrims were walking by an open field and there was a strange sound. We all stopped. A pilgrim from Spain was making this sound and it was being answered by dozens upon dozens of partridges. They were too far to get good pictures but it was magical…all of us (about 10) stopping to listen and seeing these birds. He told us that hunting season has begun so they are being displaced. We also saw vultures enjoying something. It’s not the first time that we have seen them…they have quite a wingspan.
I brought my Mp3 player so I could listen to Jazz and Latin Rock…haven’t used it though: too much to experience in the sounds around us.
We passed thru a small town called Hontanas from the word fontanas for fountains. Before you approach it all you see is a slight dip in the horizon and then there it is below. Different from most towns that are built on high ground. There is a small chapel there dedicated to a pilgrim from the 14th century, Saint Bridget of Sweden, who in 1341 went with her husband on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. It took them 3 years (round trip). When they returned her husband died and Saint Bridget dedicated her life to her faith. The small chapel is a nice dedication to a pilgrim of the past.
Unlike the other towns that we have come upon where the first thing that you see is the church bell tower, with Castrojeriz you see the tall hill with a castle on it.
El Camino teaches thru it’s history.
Mile 207 Frómista
October 1, 2017
I didn’t walk today.
Yesterday I eat something at lunch that did my stomach in. It could have been worst but it left me weak. I didn’t eat for more than 24 hours. Just drank still and gas water.
It was a long dry walk for those on El Camino. I took a cab to Fórmista and had a good conversation with the driver. He was really simpático. I asked him what they grow here in the farms and he told me that 80 to 90% was wheat, than there were grains for beer and sunflowers for oil. It’s been a long dry year…not even snow. I told him that were I live when it snows we say that it’s good for the farmers.
He would point out where El Camino was and I watched the pilgrims as they walked. Then we came to a bridge were there was a rest stop with portable water for the pilgrims. My husband was standing on the bridge! The driver stopped after the bridge so we could talk. That is the only place were El Camino crosses the road.
There is a hill that is rather steep to climb. My husband made it up in 13 minutes. It’s 1 km in length and 18% grade. People are calling him the goat now.
I am feeling better…more strength and have been drinking water. I will be eating an apple for lunch from now on like we were before.
Frómista has a renovated church that is now a museum. Construction began in 1066 and was sponsored by a noble woman. I love to go thru these old churches and take photos. Looking closer at the details is fun too. The photo of the pilgrim was in the dinning room of the hotel.
El Camino knows.
Mile 219.7 Carrion de los Condes
October 2, 2017
Today was a new day.
El Camino from Frómista to Carrion de los Condes is pretty level. We only gained 50 meters in the end and with a very gradual climb. We also had a choice: We could walk along the road way or take a side route that added 1 km to our day. The side route goes by a small river and unlike the other choice has trees. We went for the river.
Good choice.
The road was less rocky and was softer in spots with grass to walk on. We took a rest at the first bar/restaurant (it was closed) but there was a nice picnic area with tables and benches made of stone. I took off my boots so my feet could move and rest (another good choice). A woman came by and was watering some plants, she let me know that the water fountain was drinkable water. It was cool and refreshing. A man came by in his car and offered me some almonds that he grows in his yard. He opened each one for me and I gathered them in my hat. I know that this was difficult for him but he was happy to do it for me. He told me that he does this for the pilgrims “gratis” (free). He said that he was 82 years old and closer to being with Jesus. He looked happy. I believe that giving almonds to the pilgrims is his pilgrimage. He also gave me a prayer card with a picture of Jesus on it. I showed him the prayer card that I keep in my pack of the Guarding Angle over-looking two children crossing a bridge. He told me that Jesus is the “jefe” (boss). He is a gentle soul. I took a picture of him and my husband took a picture of us together. He kissed me on both my cheeks as is the custom and as we left as he was giving almonds to two ladies that had just arrived.
We walked along the river and made good time. I did need to stop along the way to rest my feet. They begin to feel like pins and needles poking in the toes. Guess it’s a pilgrim’s curse…taking the boots off for a few minutes and massaging and moving the toes helps so much! Since I hadn’t eaten much in 48 hours I was hungry. We had shared an apple and tangerine at the rest area and I had eaten a few of the almonds but I needed something more. I was feeling a bit weak, then we came upon another bar/restaurant that was open. It had a structure in front of it that was round and old and the bar was a new structure. The name of the bar is Palomar del Camino. The lady, Juliette, told us that the 3 brother’s that own it decided to keep the palomar (dovecote) there as a historical site and add the bar/restaurant for their new business especially since pilgrims do pass this way. Palomars are found throughout the area and were once a source of revenue.
The food was “rica” and we sat in the back porch where we had a nice view of the area and watched pilgrims walking El Camino Policito (what the man with the almonds called the other road that we had not taken.) For more information on this wonderful place for food and rest and history please go to their website:
So in the end the true El Camino meets up with the El Camino Political and as political issues go: the road was rocky, next to the freeway, no trees for shade, places to sit, or water sources. It was a long 5 or more miles. Our relief came from the elements: clouds that shaded us and a cool breeze.
Saw our first pilgrims on horseback.
Once we arrived to Carrion de los Condes we still had about 15 minutes to get to San Zoilo, a monastery that has been converted into a hotel and museum. So we went to a bar for a cool drink. A woman passed by our table and we recognized each other. She joined us and later her brother came by. We had started El Camino together. She is in her 70’s and 10 years older than her brother. She began El Camino carrying a full pack but it was too much so she “walked with her head” and now has a nice daypack and sends her larger one ahead using one of the transport services. We had a wonderful time talking and getting to know each other better. I so hope we meet again.
We took a day off resting at San Zoilo Hotel Real Monasterio: A beautiful setting with museum and gardens.
Besides the personable service that we received from the ladies in the restaurant at the hotel, my most memorable moment was in the afternoon of October 3rd. Our room overlooked an inner court garden. The balcony window was open and a little girl, 18 months old, who was a few rooms down from us was at her balcony and making noises so that her voice would echo through the garden court. It was so nice to hear. Then a lady looked out her window on the other side and said, “So there you are!” The girl then started to call out “Hola!” It was very relaxing and musical to listen to.
As more pilgrims arrived, more wet clothes appeared in the balcony windows…
¡Buen Camino!
Pilgrim’s Passport as of October 4, 2017
Critters (continued):
Fuzzy caterpillar, lone ant, pill bug, shiny black beetle that is oblong shaped, lavender butterflies, yellow butterfly with dark border on its wing, yellow and striped butterfly, colorful worm, a rabbit (though not across my path), flies, pesky flies, very pesky flies…I have begun to give them names and treat them like pets…their still very, very, very pesky. Guess it could be worst like those biting bugs we encountered the third and forth day out.
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