Archive for November, 2017

Mile 524.3: Lires

November 6, 2017

Today we walked along an ocean shore.

Had a late start…breakfast was not till 9 am. We headed out of Finisterre to Muxía We will be staying in Lires to shorten the distance. We headed up and up and up. The trail is marked a bit different. There are pilgrims that are heading to Muxía and others to Finisterre so there are double arrows painted on the streets using an M and F to indicate direction.

The bay was beautiful and as we headed up we entered more and more into the countryside. There are a lot of donkeys here. Only one other pilgrim passed us. We were following a long road that disappeared into the horizon when we decided to take a break and sat along a wall near a mechanic shop. My husband told me that we needed to find a sign for a small town called San Salvador. I told him that it was just behind us. There was no sign for this town that faced us as we walked but I had noticed a sign in the other direction across the street with this name on it. We backtracked and followed the road to a dirt track. It took us up through pine forests.

Sometimes the trail was wet sandy dirt and nice to walk on, other times it was full of big rocks. We walked through several small hamlets until we came upon a lumberyard. There was a yellow arrow tile on the corner of a wall that pointed in the direction that we had just come from (to Finisterre) so I continued to go straight in the opposite direction of the arrow but some men on the side of the road told me that I needed to take a turn right there.   I turned around and saw on the other corner a yellow arrow tile that pointed in the direction that I needed to go…the signage is rather tricky for those headed to Muxía.

Later in the forest we followed red arrows and red dots on rocks. The trail became rather rocky with loose stones when we came upon a marker that gave us a choice: straight through a forest or turn left to go along a beach trail.   We knew the beach trail was a kilometer longer but this was a “no brainer”…we took the beach trail. It descended down and was rough and rocky but when we came to the shore it was so worth it.

During the day we met few pilgrims: most headed to Finisterre and a few walking to Muxía. We met a young pilgrim who was deaf. He indicated that he could take our photo and we said yes. We indicated that we could also take his and he was pleased. He also wrote out on his phone asking were Lire was. We thought it was the one across the cove and showed him our map…he took a photo.   Lire is actually at the end of an estuary that was around a bend. The town is settled on a hillside and there are few ruins and many nice homes here, hórreos too…a lot. There are cormorants and herons and ducks. We saw fish swimming along the surface of the water some jumping. It is so peaceful here.

Tomorrow is our last day as we head on to Muxía.

El Camino brings one to peaceful places.

Mile 534: Muxía

November 7, 2017

Today was poetic.

I turned 61 years old today. Don’t feel 61 but then I don’t know what a 61 year old should feel. I have lost weight during this trip in spots that are hard to loose and some of my joints are creakier…but I feel good and I did something that I never thought I would. Today is our last day of this journey from France over the Pyrenees across Northern Spain and to the Atlantic Ocean.   I already look forward to our next adventure walking.

When we began our walk over El Camino Frances it rained for two days as we crossed the Pyrenees. Today it rained too. Not as hard and it didn’t sleet but it was wet and beautiful…how poetic.

We passed farmland and dairy farms, and small hamlets. We walked over soft sandy dirt and rocky roads, up and down through valleys and over hills. There is a new bridge for the pilgrims to cross. Before it was slabs of cement that pilgrims had to jump from one to the other in the water. Many bridges have been built to make the travel easier and safer for pilgrims along El Camino.

Though we could not see the ocean…the sound of the waves breaking were always in the background.

There were people we passed, few pilgrims going in our direction, many going to Finisterre. Dogs in their yards and cats everywhere (dairy country). One cat was comfortably lying in the middle of the road…in the rain. Guess it was waiting for the sun to come out. Another was sitting at a window looking miserable, the people inside ignoring it.

We finally made it to Muxía. The beaches are rocky here and beautiful, tomorrow we explore.

Yesterday when we were having lunch at the lighthouse there were three gentelmen next to us. We began a conversation with them. One asked me if our trip was all good. I told him no…El Camino is life. He agreed. Yet…in context the journey was good for it was a journey of development. Someone once told me, “What you want isn’t always what you need and what you need isn’t always what you want.”

This applies to El Camino too.

Mile 537.8: Santuario da Virxe da Barca, Muxía

November 8, 2017

Today we stood before a wild ocean of waves and stone.

It was nice to sleep in this morning. We were not in a hurry to go anywhere and didn’t have to get the suitcases packed and take down before 8 am for pick-up. No clothes to wash (will do that in Santiago.)   Our plan was to go to the Santuario da Virxe da Barca (Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Boat) were the ancients worshiped the sun and St. James saw the Virgin on a stone boat.

As we were walking up to the Sanctuary we passed the albergue and saw someone that we knew. She had started with us and the last time we saw her was in Ponferrada. She had a sore ankle so we helped her find the hospital there.   Later we met up again and it wasn’t as bad as she feared. It was so good to see her and to know that she had made it all the way to Muxía. She was waiting for a taxi with friends to go back to Santiago. She will be there for a few days so hopefully we will meet again…anyway my husband and I gave her our e-mails.

The walk was short and easy. The church was closed, the gift shop open. (Go figure.) We walked down along the rocks that line the shore and watched the waves as they hit the shore. I could have stood there forever. There are four stones of interest: Pedra do Timón (the rudder stone); Pedra da Abalar (the axis stone); Pedra dos Cadris (the sail stone); and Pedra dos Namorados (the lover’s stone). None are marked but we found the sail stone and the axis stone.

After we walked up a hill were you could see a 360-degree view of the area. I didn’t go all the way up and decided to take a side trail that led me to three large stones. Two were touching and one was not. There was a flat stone between the single one and one of the other two. I stepped on the flat stone and stretched out my arms to touch both stones. My fingers barely reached. I sent Reiki energy to the stones and I felt a serge of energy come back. I think the old church missed some of the Ancient’s sacred stones. I had felt nothing when I touched the sail stone. Now I feel a peace inside of me. I have also received what I needed from El Camino. Earth’s bones can hurt but they also can heal.

We left to have something to eat and rest. We went to a small bar where we could have some Caldo Gallego the standard soup made with the collar greens that are grown all over in home gardens. The lady gave us a plate of barnacles to eat with our drinks before we were served the soup. We had never eaten barnacles before and my husband ended up splashing himself with seawater when he tried to break the shell cover. I heard a hardy laugh from the bar and looked up. A man was having a great time watching us fail in our efforts. I looked at him and smiled and shrugged my shoulders. He came over and showed us how to break them open so we would not splash ourselves. He was very helpful and left the bar laughing.

They were quite tasty.

Later we went back to watch the sunset. The tide was up and the ocean wilder than before. Again I took a lot of photos. It was windy, cold and beautiful. As the sun set we both felt at peace and are ready for new adventures.

El Camino will always be with us.

Donde el silencio esconde algo más que palabras.”

 “Where silence means more than words.”


¡Buen Camino!

Good Journey!


Pilgrim’s Passport:



Certification for Muxía:


Footnote: The second day that we were in Santiago we were walking to the laundry mat and saw the young French man whose cart had broken. He had seen us crossing the street so he was standing by his table at a café waiting for us. It was so wonderful to see him. He told us that he was going to go to the albergue to find new shoes (people leave things there for others) and than he was on his way to Sevilla…walking. This is El Camino de la Plata (Silver). We too will be leaving Santiago for Sevilla in a week (by plane)  We will not meet there, his journey is another 1000 km.  I wish him well in his new journey.

His name is Uriel like the angel.




The distances that we walked do not match well. I used the distance that my husband’s iphone gave us at the end of each day. Officially we walked 799 km or 496.5 miles from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.   We took a bus once (to avoid traffic right outside of Burgos) and taxi a few times to shorten our walk because of illness, fatigue, or bad trails. This added up to 43.1 miles all together for me since I took off a day because of food poisoning (18 miles). From Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre and finially Muxía we walked. Even with a bad knee, I was able to get thru the 135 miles of our second phase of this pilgrimage. So taking the official miles to Santiago de Compostela, adding the miles to Muxía the total comes out to 631.5 miles of which I walked 588.4 miles total. This does not count the miles that we walked on our days off.

Read Full Post »

Mile 466.4: Negreira

October 31, 2017

Today my right knee almost gave out…Ouch!

We began the day seeing the two ladies from Brazil at breakfast. When I asked the daughter if she wanted to walk with us her eyes went wide in shock…she is such an expressive and joyful soul. The whole room lights up with her. I have met so many people that I wish I could get to know better. El Camino brings such wonderful souls to us to meet…souls that represent the people we meet in our life and sometimes can develop a lasting friendship with.

We headed west out of Santiago. The markings are not as well defined when leaving the city of St. James. We followed large boot markings thinking that they were for the way out…turns out they were leading us to an elementary school. Oh well. Finally we saw more of the yellow arrows and shells that lead us out of the city into a rural setting. We walked through valleys with beautiful residential homes on large lots and farms. El Camino is made up of asphalt streets and wooded trails. We met a man along one of the trails walking his two dogs. We talked a bit with him. Later we met a man pushing a wheel barrel with logs. He was clearing out the old wood from his land.

We met few pilgrims: a German who began his walk in Germany and told me to throw my trekking poles away; a young couple; a couple of ladies from Germany; a young lady from Quebec who began in France where friends live. (We had crossed paths with her for two days before we arrived to Santiago.)

My right knee was feeling weak and I was having problems walking so I was taking longer than usual. We were running behind and this was a long day. When we stopped for lunch the idea of taking a taxi just didn’t feel right…I was there to walk. I am better going up than down so after lunch I was able to go at a better pace. As we began to descend the lady from Quebec joined us and we were having a nice conversation when my left knee jerked…and it hurt. This was something new and it worried me. My husband and I stopped at a bus stop and the lady continued on. I did some Reiki on it and the rest of the day I just took my time and was careful with it.

I am glad that I did not decide to take a cab to our next stop. The walk was beautiful and we went through a small village, Ponte Maceira, with a beautiful bridge. Most of the day we passed through beautiful areas.

Tomorrow a storm is approaching…

A Note: The bar where we had lunch had an arbor over the front porch that covered it with leaves and fruit from grape, kiwi, and chayote vines. We had seen the kiwi mixed with grapes in another patio that day but the chayote surprised us. This is a fruit that is found in Central America. So we asked the young man about it. He said that they also were not familiar with it and actually didn’t like it because it is too sweet for them. We asked him what they called it. “Patata de aire,” was his answer. (Air potatoe.) He asked me how I prepared it and I explained my favorite dish: Picadilla de Chayote (it’s boiled, pealed and chopped small with bell peppers and corn added and then sautéed in butter with herbs added).

El Camino can be rough on the body.


Mile 479.3: Santa Marina

 November 1, 2017

We are walking through the Wild Galecia.

Knee bothered me a bit…but was able to work with it. The trail was basically the same with forest and asphalt. Passed through different small towns. Stopped in bus stops and picnic areas to eat and rest. Not many other pilgrims…two young men from Belgium and Sweden (he has been walking for 4 months for over 2000 km), a woman, a couple and a man headed for Santiago.

We had a choice of trails and picked the “easier” one. It began well…flat. I then saw a man coming from around a corner of the trail where we were headed. He was going the opposite way to Santiago. He looked worn out. Then I turned the corner…¡Dios Mio! The road went down a bit and then there was a high incline up. This was just the beginning of how this “easier” road went for several kilometers…like a roller coaster. Actually it looked worst than it was but it was a long trek.

We could hear guns going off and saw a hunter with his dog looking for birds; two others had 4 dogs and were hunting rabbits.

It only drizzled a bit today. We enjoyed our time and the beautiful countryside. In one pasture we saw the native long horned cows again. There were calves playing with their mothers.

When we got to our next hotel the two young men were there having a beer outside. They were worried because there were no more beds at the albergue. We told them that we had a reservation and were staying in the casa rural next door. I thought that was sweet that they were concerned.

We ended the day at mass in a little church across from the Albergue/Casa Rural: Casa Pepa. We were the only pilgrims. The church was full of ladies and 4 men (counting my husband) and one little girl. It was a mass for All Saints Day. The cemetery was full of flowers and candles. The priest said that everyone is a pilgrim. I love the smaller churches they are so beautiful in their simplicity. This one had a beautiful carved alter painted in gold. The wall behind the saints was decorated with hand painted flowers. The alter had two containers with flowers growing out of them. The containers were paint cans…love it!

When we got to the part of mass where we shake hands and tell people to “Peace be with you” one man would not shake his hand with us and a lady behind us was not pleased with us either. The rest were kind and smiled. For a few we intruded for most we were welcome. It was a good mass.

We ended the night at dinner with the other pilgrims, many that we had met on the road and the lady from Quebec. We all have been on the road for a long time and the atmosphere is different…deeper. The couple that we eat with was not doing well in their relationship. They have dated for a couple of years so decided to walk El Camino. They are finding that their relationship is growing and doing better. They were surprised that my husband and I have been married for 35 years. I really liked them…I hope they find the love and happiness for a good, strong and lasting relationship.

El Camino can help one appreciate what is in front of them.


Mile 487.9: Olveiroa

November 2, 2017

Today we entered a town of stone hórreos.

It was raining when we woke up. The couple that we met the night before left early so we will not see them again.  Most of the pilgrims at breakfast did not want to go out in the rain.  I go by the saying that there is no bad weather, just inadequate clothes.  So I put on my vest and then my rain coat.  I placed my Bolivian wool cap on that has ear flaps and keeps my ears toasty, placed the hood from my raincoat over that and last my rain hat.  As I walked I felt like I was in a portable tent.

An older man that we had met in the alburgue walked with us for a while. We enjoyed the beautiful scenery but it was difficult to photograph. Finally the rain stopped about an hour after leaving for the road.   We just enjoyed the rest of the day and my knee  behaved.

There are lots of large dairy farms and hórreos made of stone instead of wood slats or red brick.   We saw our first stone hórreo in Negreira in front of the hotel. Later a lady who worked at the hotel Pension As Pias in Olveiroa told my husband that the bigger the hórreo the richer the owner. Her grandfather had built two but her uncle years later took one down and her aunt had a fit. They are used to store corn for the cows and potatoes for the people.*

We ended the day with a wonderful dinner. The two young man that I had met the day before were there enjoying their meal too. They were staying at the albergue that we had passed earlier when walking through the town. We had seen a young woman who looked really tired and desperate on the main road earlier.  My husband told her that there was an alberge down the side street. She looked so relieved. We asked about her. She was able to get a room.

It rained all night and we heard some thunder. Tomorrow we will see the Atlantic Ocean.

El Camino is good…wet or dry.

* After we were thru with our walk we stayed in Santiago for a week and spent a day at the Museo Galego. There I learned that the corn stored in the hórreos were for the pigs and chickens. It is also ground for bread. The story told to me of feeding cows corn didn’t make sense. Cows don’t naturally eat corn and it upsets their stomachs. I know corn-fed beef is a “thing” in the U.S. but it is bad for the animals and not good for consumption grass-fed beef is so much healthier for all concerned. (Knowledge learned from homeschooling my daughter thru High School)


Mile 499.5: Cée

November 3, 2017

Today I found out that my pack is a cat magnet.

In the morning it was still cloudy but blue sky was peaking through. The walk was up over a mountain and very nice. We saw few pilgrims. We stopped at the only bar for a drink and to get something to eat. There were three kittens: two black ones and a tiger striped one. They sat under the table as we eat and played with our boots then one went to my pack and played with the straps, the other two joined it. It was fun to watch them play.

The road was rocky in some places but most of it was wet sand and dirt and felt nice. We passed a small chapel called Nosa Señora das Neves (Our Lady of the Snow). There is a journal outside for people to make comments. The young woman from Quebec had left one in French. I left one too.

Finally we saw the ocean it was far away and matched the cloudy sky. We walked along a hilltop with large rocks forming islands in the grass and took a break on one. As we were descending we met up with a lady from Australia wearing a nice blue felt hat. She was coming to terms with her problems on El Camino and her friends and family are praying for her.

As we were walking a man was approaching us; it was Erik. Even the lady from Australia knew him. He didn’t recognize us at first and than he recognized me. He had gone to Muxía first and was headed back to Santiago. He was happy because his son couldn’t book an early flight for him so now he could spend more time there before going home. He had also found the boat that he wanted through the web for his next adventure. I am glad that we met up with him again. I had been thinking of him that day.

As we were descending down to the coast towards Cée (say) we saw a man with three dogs…one was a pit bull. He told us that to own one he couldn’t have a police record and had to register the dog with the police. He got down on one knee and had the dog lick his ear to show us that it was gentle.

The lady from Australia wanted to walk alone so she slowed down to get some distance between us but we were seeing beautiful views of the ocean so she asked if I could take a photo of her, then we parted.

Dinner at the hotel began at 8 and we were hungry at 5. We cleaned up and decided to find a bar for a drink and tapas but it was raining hard so we went to the cafeteria/bar at the hotel that was only serving drinks. The man tending the bar turned out to be the owner, Pepe. We talked to him and asked if he had anything to eat…chips or something. He offered to make us dinner early, he loves to cook and made us a wonderful dish of tapas de seta (mushroom), scrambled eggs with setas, and fish. He showed us how to cut the fish to remove most of the bones. He then brought out a plate full of the biggest muscles that we have ever seen and my husband enjoyed them. Finally Pepe brought out an apple tarta. It was flaky and good. He was so fun to be with and so happy to cook for us.

El Camino brings happy people together.


Mile 507.4: Finisterre

November 4, 2017

We didn’t get to see the sunset but the moon was full and bright.

The morning was clear and bright with blue sky and clouds. Pepe made us toastatas (toast) and sang to us. He is happy preparing even the simple foods. So we left Cee to the next town that is on the other side of the beach and met the lady from Australia. We walked a bit together then parted. We wanted to see more of the town before leaving.

There is artwork of statues and murals in a park. People kept telling us that we needed to go another way for El Camino but we told them that we wanted to see the town first.   Later a lady leaving her house also told that we were going the wrong way so we told her that we were headed to the church. She told us which street to take…the one with the stairs…and kept an eye on us to make sure that we didn’t miss it.  When we got to the church we met another lady who lives across the plaza from the church and she told us about the church’s saint who sits and writes.

We left through a stony alleyway bordered by stonewalls that went up and up and up to an asphalt road that also went up and up and up. I heard some noise behind me and saw four men walking their bikes out of the stony alleyway. Two were able to get on their bikes and work their way up the road. The other two kept on walking. As they passed us they told me that this was for younger people. I told them that if there was an up there would be a down.

We walked over streets and roads that went behind homes. Some of the streets were quite busy with traffic so we had to be careful. When walking on a street pilgrims walk on the left side facing the cars coming but sometimes there are blind curves so we cross to the other side. We had to do this several times and the cars were fast, the drivers are not so concerned about the few pilgrims that they see here.

We stopped for lunch at a little bar along the beach and the lady made us calmari (squid). It was one of the best. She breaded it herself and fried it so well. We eat it with a mixed salad. Then it was time to go over the last hill and there was Finisterre (Fisterra in Galego): The End of the World.

We met up with the lady from Australia again and we talked awhile as we walked. I took some more photos of her and we parted. The walk along the shore was flat and curved. It was also hard since it was made up of stone slabs. We could see the lighthouse in the distance.  As we were walking on a side trail a pheasant crossed our path.  It was a pleasant surprise.

Before looking for our hotel we went to the alberge where we could get our certification. Then we walked back up and up and up to our hotel, which is made of stone and beautiful. Later we went out for dinner. I brought my trekking poles to help me with the hills. My knee is doing much better but I will take no chances.

Dinner was good. I had my favorite: octopus with shrimp and a salad of tomatoes and cheese. We had white wine with it and asked for the cork. My husband told the waiter that I was making a cork jacket to wear when I jumped into the sea at the End of the World. I told him that I needed a lot more than what I had. He came back with a red cork with paw prints on it for me.   So now I have a special cork.

We did not get to see the sunset today, as is the tradition…it was too cloudy. As we walked home from dinner, though, the clouds parted and we saw two stars and a bright full moon. The sun setting represents the end of an old era for the pilgrim. The full moon though coming out from behind clouds has more meaning to me.

Tomorrow we walk to the lighthouse and the End of the World.

El Camino has its own tradition to share.


Mile 515.4: El Cabo Finisterre

November 5, 2017

Today I followed the path of the Ancients.

The coast line that we have been following for a couple of days is known as Costa da Morte (Coast of the Dead) because of the shipwrecks. It’s a beautiful area with sandy beaches and rugged cliffs. We followed El Camino today to the End of the World where there is a lighthouse. Once it was thought that this was the furthest point of land on this coastline. People have found something special here way before the Romans or Christians arrived.

First we went to the lighthouse. The trail here runs beside the winding road by the cliff. We walked up and up and up. There is a statue of a pilgrim along the way. This is where I began walking on the street facing traffic. The trail is narrow and there are bushes along the side but they only hide the sharp drop down. As I walked along the road with other pilgrims a car stopped beside us. I saw him driving up and down the road several times but paid him no mind. I was told later that he had stopped to watch the backend of the women and myself that were walking…pervert.

Once we reached the lighthouse we went to the side of it. There are stairs that go down to the rocks and shore where there are several points of interest for pilgrims.  As I was descending the stairs something made me stop and I ended up not going down to the point. My husband later told me that it was rather touristy. I know there’s “points of interest” down there but something wasn’t right. This was not were I belonged.

We had a nice lunch at the hotel there.  We got into a conversation with some Spaniards. We talked about our time on El Camino and one asked me if it had been a good trip. I told him that not all was good but then again…yes, it was good because El Camino is life.

After lunch we headed up to the Monte Facho where there are three outcrops of rocks that were sacred to the Ancient people that lived here. We stood by these ancient stones and looked out upon the Atlantic Ocean. It was rugged and beautiful. I placed my palms on one of the rocks and sent Reiki energy to it. Then I felt heat come back to me like a liquid glove covering my hands. There is so much energy here.

We then continued to the other side of the mountain where there is an old hermitage of Saint Guillerme. There is a large rock there and what is left of the walls of the chapel and living space. There is an alter in the chapel with a slab of stone by it with an indentation where people can lay on it. The slab predates the Christian era and it was thought that to lie on it one would become fertile. Across the bay from this site is Monte Pindo. This was a sacred mountain for the Celts and is majestic to see especially when the sun is shinning on it. As we walked back down towards the road a rainbow appeared in front of Monte Pindo. This was a magical way to end the day and our time at The End of the World.

We took the trail down from the mountain to the road again we saw the lady from Australia. I really love her blue felt hat. It has so much style and looks good on her. She looked happy and relaxed. She leaves for Santiago tomorrow and than home. May El Camino have blessed her as it has for us.

We ended our day in our room eating fruit and cookies that we had in our pack. We had stopped by the restaurant that we gone to the night before. The lady there had told us that they were open from noon till 11 pm and did not close during the siesta time. Turned out this was not true. We arrived there at 5 pm and they were closed. The same lady made up a story as to why and expected us to return at 7 pm. We tried to find food somewhere else but most of the bars and restaurants were closed or not serving food (or so they said). There were many that were full of men playing games together and they had food. We were glad that we had eaten at the lighthouse. Our feet hurt and my knee was sore. Neither of us wanted to walk down the hill and back for dinner. So we enjoyed the food that we had and drank water.

Tomorrow we head to Muxía (Moo-shee-ah) the Christian “End of the World.”

 El Camino has an energy all of its own.



Pilgrim’s Passport:



Certification for Finisterre:


¡Buen Camino!

Read Full Post »

Mile 418.1: Melide

October 26, 2017

Today was a new day with new adventures to discover.

We began our walk from the hotel. It is set in a river valley so we walked up through pine and oak forests. Most were not natural but still beautiful. There were also plantings of new forests of a tree I did not recognize. Here and there are eucalyptus trees. I have been seeing these in a few other places too…not native to Spain.

We saw our first squirrel…it was black and ran across the road in front of us.

Since our walk would be short today we decided to wait to stop and eat. We are in pulpo (octopus) country and I have been waiting two years to have good pulpo. (We had ordered some in Sahagun but it was really, really, really bad).

The trail was not too bad as far as ups and downs went but it was full of small stones that hurt the toes so we stopped a few times to give them a rest. At one stop I was sitting on a stone bench in front of a house next to a bar. There were two kittens on the other side of a gate and the lady of the house opened her door to feed them. They were not too sure about the two pilgrims on the stone bench but finally they came out to eat. We talked awhile with the lady. She takes care of the stray cats in her town. She was a very sweet person.

We later met up with a couple from yesterday, they live in Northern California and we ended up eating together at the Pulperia Ezequiel which is noted as the best in the area. Even the too tannic wine tasted better as we enjoyed our pulpo.

Medile is similar to other larger towns that we have passed. We went to the church to see when mass was and there was a small chapel open in the same plaza. Nearby was a cobbler shop where he made shoes and purses and wallets and other leather goods. It smelled nice.

I decided not to go to mass today. My husband went alone and it was good for him.

That night we eat a headless fish. Usually fish are served whole…from head to tail. The chef came out later to see how we liked dinner. He said that he changed the way of serving fish since he cooked mainly for pilgrims from different countries and many didn’t like seeing the head (and eyes). He had cut the fish in strips and fried the skin so crisp. It smelled and tasted so good. His name is Armando, he’s a young man who loves his work and has a bounce for life. His family owns the business: Pousada Chiquitin.

El Camino shows us the simple things in life.

Mile 426.7: Arzúa (Dombodan)

 October 27, 2017

Somewhere we have left the land of stone and slate to stone and tejas.

I awoke to a car passing in the street. Though the hike was to be short today (8.6 miles) we had crests and valleys to walk up and down. There are more pilgrims on the road now since many begin in Sarria: a group of Germans with two young girls and the cutest little dog called Gaston (I call him El Perro Peregrino); two ladies who are getting use to the roughness of the trail; A little girl whose boyfriend is carrying all their goods as she bounces and clicks her trekking poles. This is the first day since leaving O Cebreiro that I have not seen the French man with a cart. I think we may be ahead of him now.

The trail changed from asphalt to rock throughout the day. We stopped twice to rest our feet. Along the way there were rest areas with picnic tables and shade. The forests are a mixture of old oak, hazelnut, pine and eucalyptus as well as one that I don’t recognize. The old oak and hazelnut looks natural, the rest are planted.

The other day I picked up a black rock that looks like obsidian. Now I am seeing black rocks embedded in the dirt of the trail…maybe it’s jet, the black stone from ancient trees that is used to make jewelry here.

The houses are still made from stone but the roofs are now tejas instead of slate. Some of the stone has been covered with cement leaving a few details of the stone. Other houses are all stone…showing the beauty of the different forms and colors. Many of the homes as well as churches have open slits in the walls, either low or high. These were used for defense.

We had lunch at the Café Bar Santiago where the owner has walls full of letters from pilgrims…it tells how good he is to be honored so.

Except for a few steep hills, the walk was not so difficult. We made it to Arzúa in no time, had a beer (1906 Reserva Especial) and the bartender called our hotel for pickup. We are staying in Donbodan at Casa Brandariz. This is an ancestral home of the family that owns it. They had lost it in history but were able to buy it back. It was in bad shape but they had it fixed up…stone by stone…and now it is a Casa Rural and restaurant. Doña María del Carmen Costoya Gómez is an award-winning chef and has the awards to prove it. The pleasure of dinning there is all one needs to know this is a woman with the talent and love for fine dinning.

Next to the home is a church with an old and modern cemetery. The old one is in front of the church with plaques like the ones usually found on the interior floor of a church. There are two small ones: for a girl of two and a boy with no age noted. They left this life way before I was born. Rest their little souls.

A lady was there with a bucket and scrub brush to clean them. We spoke with her for a while. Her daughter lives in South America and works for a non-profit that helps women. We talked about how there were many people from Galicia that had moved to Costa Rica during the time of Franco. She said that it had become so bad there during that time.

We dined in a room where once cows lived and enjoyed a meal that puts “Home” in a home cooked dinner.

El Camino brings the past and present together.

Mile 437.6: A Rúa (O Pino)

 October 28, 2017

We ended the day with our feet up near a fire in a large hearth that is in a house built in the 18th century. (Casa Calvo in O Pino)

The day went well. The trail was not so difficult with some ups and downs that were manageable but it was rocky and I needed to stop a few times to take off the boots and massage my toes. It’s hard to find a place to sit sometimes when one needs it. There was a wall but signs said not to sit on it so we found a rock. A pilgrim passed as I was massaging my toes and told me that she related.

We walked through forests that had been planted and gave us shade. We walked through small hamlets where many of the old stone houses have been repaired into new homes. We saw lots and lots and lots of hórreos, some with corn stacked in them.  There was a wall with thoughts of wisdom tied to it.

We came upon the French pilgrim without his cart…it had fallen apart so now he is wearing his pack. When we pass him we say, “Hola, otra vez.” He doesn’t know what “otra vez” (again) means so today he pulled out his French/English dictionary and learned a new Spanish word.

The new pilgrims are beginning to feel El Camino. The walks up are getting to them; their feet hurt…the little girl with her boyfriend (who is carrying everything for her) had bounced and played yesterday and now is tired and feeling the pain that this road can cause…they argue.  Yet…for most they understand and are enjoying the discoveries that El Camino has to offer.

Tomorrow we arrive to Santiago de Compostela and end phase one.

El Camino has a wisdom of its own.

Mile 453.4: Santiago de Compostella

 October 29, 2017

Today was a bitter/sweet walk. Memories of the past two months flowed through my mind…

El Camino is not too bad here: some ups and downs (which are more interesting that a flat road), we walked through small hamlets and forests that had been planted by humans. The trail changes from forest trails to stony senderas to asphalt and sidewalk. This was hard on the feet but as always we find a place to stop and rest them. Finally we came upon Monte de Goza (Mount of Joy) where there are two monuments to visit. One is more abstract with large panels on all four sides and honors the visit of Pope John Paul II and Francis of Assisi. The other is of two pilgrims looking over Santiago…and below there is the city with the Cathedral of Santiago to the side.

As we approached the city I had a “call of nature” and nowhere to go. When nature calls on El Camino and there’s a bar, you buy a drink and use the aseo or W.C. (which are kept very clean and nice). When there is no bar, well, the men have it much easier than us ladies. So here we were, just entering Santiago and no bar but there was a conference center with people going in and out setting up for some event. So…we walked in with packs on our backs and carrying our trekking poles. We asked two ladies were the aseo was and they directed us. It was big and nice and so needed. As we left there was a man standing to the side watching us…security. He didn’t look pleased and watched us as we thanked the ladies and left. I ignored him. My husband’s boot squeaked.  What was he going to do? Kick us out?

As we walked through Santiago headed towards the center of the old medieval town we could see the three towers of the Cathedral.  El Camino takes the pilgrim by the side of the Cathedral through a covered passageway where someone plays the bagpipes. Turn left and there is the front (which is still being repaired). Pilgrims and tourists alike are in the plaza.  I saw a group of people sitting on the ground by the cathedral, they waved at me.  It was the group of Germans that we had been walking with since Sarria.  I took their photo and then one of El Perro Peregrino.

We continued to La Oficina de Acogida Perigrino where we received our certificates: one as pilgrims, the other for the kilometers that we have crossed.

 Later we went to mass. This is not the special mass that is only held on Sundays in the afternoon. But it is still special and there were a lot of pilgrims there. A man from France was invited to come up and present letters that people from his small village had written to give to the priests when he arrived. It was so sweet. The priest also calls out a list of where the pilgrims that came in that day come from and how many started from where. Only two came in this day from St. Jean Pied de Port…my husband and I. Some began even further, most began closer to Santiago.

A woman in front of us started taking photos during mass and was told to stop by a pilgrim, she moved to the back and continued. I just don’t get the disrespect of some people…this is a holy time.

Overall it was a good mass and a good way to end our first phase of our trip. Tomorrow we have a rest day and look forward to washing our clothes, buying some supplies and going to our favorite café for coffee and ice cream.

On El Camino there are many good people who remind us that life is wonderful.

No Miles…Day off: Santiago

October 30, 2017

Today we enjoyed sleeping till 8 a.m.

We are staying in Virxe do Cerca located behind the farmer’s market. The building is old and of stone and once was a factuary. We stayed here last time and love it.

This was a day of wash and rest so we went to the laundry and enjoyed conversing with a man who lives here and later two pilgrims from Australia who took the English route of El Camino. We then did some shopping for fruit from a fruit stand and creams from the pharmacy. After dropping everything off we went to our favorite café for coffee and ice cream. It was once a casino and was established in 1873. Now it is called El Bistro del Vino. I love the wooden decor in it…it is a good place to relax.

Afterwards we went to the Cathedral to hug St. James whose bust is up behind the altar. It is forbidden to take photos there for it is a sacred area for prayer. I hugged him for Don José who I met before going to Astorga. I hugged him for my cousin in Puerto Rico who has no food or water or electricity because of the hurricane and is getting no help from the idiot in Washington D.C. because he doesn’t like Latinos.  I hugged him for the people who made our journey wonderful and the ones who are sick and need the energy to heal.  We also lit candles them.

We then went down under the altar where there is a small casket of silver where the bones of St. James lies. I prayed for everyone.

Even though there are signs as one enters these sacred areas that there is to be NO photographing of these shrines, yet someone has to do it (and with flash!)  I politely told the man that is was forbidden. People are praying here. He was defensive.

We ended our day having dinner at the hotel. I have waited two years to have the pulpo with fava beans…the funny looking brown ones. I love fava beans but here all beans are called fava. So I began with the caldo gallego (the local soup), which was the best yet and then came the pulpo…with large white beans…oh well…it was a bit salty but tasted wonderful!

While we were eating two women came into the restaurant. One was carrying a folded up box. It was a daughter and mother from Brazil. The daughter began talking to us as if she knew us in Portuguese. She was so full of life and expressive and fun to talk to. The waiter also got into the conversation so here we were having a wonderful time kidding around in three languages: Brazilian Portuguese, Galego, and Spanish. Then just as they had come in, they left. It was a bit surreal. I thought they had come down for dinner. My husband told me that he had met them the day before when they were checking in. Okay…but…I still don’t know why they were in the restaurant. Glad they were though.

Tomorrow we begin our walk to Finesterra.

El Camino is always with you.

Pilgrim’s Certificates:

Pilgrim’s Passport as of October 29, 2017


¡Buen Camino!

Read Full Post »

Mile 374.6: Triacastela

October 22, 2017

I’m beginning to enjoy the scent of fresh cow manure.

It was cold when we left O Cebreiro. Our day would lead us down about 600 meters but El Camino led us up and down on a trail that hugged the mountains. The view was spectacular as we passed through small farm villages and cows in pastures. The steepest ascent was just before Alto do Poio where we ended at a bar that had great empanadas. (Big too).

We rested and began the descent to Triacastela where once upon a time there were three castles. Now there are none.

The descent began well with a slight incline. The scenery was, again, spectacular. Then the descent became more and more “fuerte” (difficult). There were many areas that were very steep but the countryside that we walked through was so beautiful that we enjoyed the walk. The scent of cow manure, the call of the cows, and the clang of the bells that hung around their necks filled our day.

El Camino brings us beauty.


Mile 383.4 Sarria

October 23, 2017

Today I learned that the pilgrim towing a cart is French.

The day began chilly with frost on the pasture grass. We had breakfast in the café of the hotel that we were staying at: Casa David. It is a homey place and the people there are so friendly. It was such a difference from O Cebreiro where we felt that we were intruding on the family and they didn’t serve breakfast till 8:30 (we went somewhere else).

Breakfast was good. The lady was concerned because the toaster had stopped working and we told her that it was no issue…we liked our bread “crudo” (raw). I told her that at least it wasn’t the coffee maker that broke. She spoke Galegos to us and we spoke Spanish to her.

We walked out of town and passed a small building that looked like a small castle (maybe one of the three castles did survive?). The trail led us to a valley where the grass was grey with frost and roosters crowed and dogs barked. It was beautiful!…A hidden jewel that went on for miles and miles.

The trail winds and moves up and down. Not really a bad trail. There was a part that was so steep and the trail was made of small rocks, I wished for larger rocks that would make a natural stair to make the way easier: watch out for what you wish for. Around the bend was a steep incline by a fountain for drinkable mountain water, large rocks formed a natural stairway…it was more difficult to descend.

During the day I would pass or be passed by a young man who is towing a cart with his pack and other goods. I had passed and been passed by him yesterday too. I had greeted him in both English and Spanish…he didn’t seem to understand either. Today he was with a young woman. She speaks Italian to him and he speaks French to her. It is interesting how the Romantic languages can work with each other.

A lady in O Cebreiro told me that she spoke several languages because she had dated men who spoke those languages (all Romantic ones). “That is the way to learn a language.” She told me. “But not Basque, Basque is too difficult.” She spoke Basque, though, because she grew up with it.”

So the day went well and now we are in Sarria where many gather to walk El Camino to Santiago de Compostella. A pilgrim only needs to walk 100 kilometers (62 miles) to get the Pilgrim Certification in Santiago so many begin their journey here.

Over the past weeks we have lost pilgrims that began with us: injuries, time constraints (but will be back next year to continue), found that it was more than they imagined. Now we will have a new group of people on the road; they will be fresh and begin to learn what those of us who have been here for a while have learned: El Camino is no walk in the park…

El Camino es La Vida.


 Mile 399.2: Portomarín

 October 24, 2017

Today I heard different forms of music. Some were beautiful because they belonged here; some were intrusive because they did not belong here.

El Camino takes the pilgrim up a steep and high stairway to enter the center of Sarria. Yesterday we went up it to see the town. Today we went up it to follow El Camino. It is always more difficult with the pack on.

The trail led us to a monestary and past a cematary along a freeway in the sky and a railroad track. Then up, up, and up we went on a beautiful country road.

Again we passed and were passed by the French pilgrim with a cart.  I would say to him, “¡Hola, otra vez!”  I don’t believe he understands “otra vez”  (again).

We have new pilgrims…they began in Sarria where it is about 102 kilometers from Santiago…the minimum to walk for a certificate is 100 km.   Birds sang and the wind blew through the leaves of the trees and along a trail between walls of old stone and moss we heard a bagpipe.  Around the corner was a young man in full traditional dress playing for us.  It was wonderful.  Later I met a pilgrim with a round ukulele. He played something for me…it was sweet.

There are a lot of new pilgrims.  A group of teens play their Rock & Roll rather loud and it takes away the bird song and wind through leaves.  A pilgrim asked one of the adults with them if she could please have them lower their music…she didn’t care.  Hopefully they will not be with us tomorrow.  This is a different camino…it is easy to see who has been walking longer…we have a dusty look.  It is also easy to see who is a pilgrim and who is there for only fun. (Though we pilgrims have fun too but we also respect the space of others.)

We saw a cow that is native to the area with long, long horns called cachega.  We are also in the land of hórreos (orr-a-o):  raised buildings (so the critters can’t get in them) where corn is stacked.  Some have been repaired while others are in disrepair.  We saw one that was now above the entrance of a house and another one was painted with designs.

Portomarín was once lower and closer to the river but it was raised up higher when the river, Rio Miño, rose.  There is a long, long, long, bridge that I had to cross and it was frightening.  I am afraid of heights.  But I made it only to find a high stairway to also climb.  I survived this too.

The church here is interesting…it is a fortress church with an area above where soldiers of the past could stand their ground.  We went to mass at the fortress church.  It was a special mass for a group of about fifty boys who would have rather been somewhere else.  They entered in small groups during the mass.  Some were disruptive.  I can’t help but think that if their chaperones had been nuns they would have been in better behavior and seated before mass began.

El Camino can be trying on the patience sometimes.